Day 4: Pantheon and More

To begin the day we caught the bus to the Vatican as it was raining but took one stop too far.  This gave us the chance to see cross the Ponte Sant Angelisto and see the marvelous sweeping view up the Via della Concilianzione to St Peter's Bascillica.   


Our first excursion was a pre-booked tour of the excavations under St Peter's which revealed a first century necropolis or city of the dead.  Constantine I filled over this necropolis around between 330 CE order to build a church over the site of the grave of St Peter.  As it was a crime to disturb the tombs of the dead the project reveals the importance he had on making sure the church was closely linked to the site of Peter's tomb.  We went with a group of 13 below the crypt of St Peters (3rd level down) to explore the mausoleums of the early Romans.  It is fascinating how the archaeological  studies have revealed so much about Roman family life, beliefs and religions.  The sarcophagi of the dead illustrated the story of their life and in several cases identified them as Christians. I was interested in the cult of Dionysus, the connection between him and wine and new life (wine and life is a South Australian theme!) and the place of peacocks in Christian art as symbolizing immortality.  A highlight was a lengthy discussion of the evidence for the tomb of Peter under the main altar of the current Basciica and observation of the burial site, bones and early efforts to preserve the sight as a place of pilgrimage and veneration over the centuries.  To have the chance to pray at the tomb of Peter ~2000 years after his death was very special.

Because of the crowds we left the walk up the St Peter's cupola for another day and began to wander through the city along the Corsa Vittorio Emanuele.  We came upon the Piazza Novona one of Rome's biggest and busiest squares and full of markets and people, and in ancient times, was use for athletic games.  In the centre is n the center stands the famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651) by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian - one of many fountains hosting an Egyptian Obelisk.  Click here to see all the obelisks in Rome.    There are also number of churches around the perimeter.

Eventually we made it to the Pantheon temple now a church.  This is probably the oldest (rebuilt in 125 CE from earlier temple ) and best preserved Roman temple and notable for it's amazing dome which a architectural masterpiece 43.2 M in diameter and with a hole or oculus at the top.  The floor is concave with drainage holes to drain water that comes in when in rains.  The oculus has astronomical significance as the light from the sun shines on certain parts of the temple at the summer equinox and and winter solstice   After coffee in the square we explored the temple via a audio guide. There is too mch to talk about but the church has the tomb of painter Raphael and that of the first King of Italy (Vittrio Emanuele II ).


Another church nearby that we went into was that dedicated to St Ignatius Loyola which has a 'painted on' cupola and is worth a look.

Late afternoon we made it to the Trevi Fountain which was beautiful and packed with tourists. The Romans had a custom of building a handsome fountain at the endpoint of an aqueduct that brought water to Rome and this is an example that was rebuilt in 1762.  We did throw a coin in hoping one day to return!

Temple of Hadrian

Other highlights of or walk were the Temple of Hadrian and the column of Aurelius upon which St Paul has replaced Aurelius at the top.  In the square facing the church St. Maria Sopra Minerva there is a wonderful obelisk supported by an elephant designed by Bernini.  It was being restored so we could not see it well but this square again has a rich history being built near the original temple dedicated to the Roman goddess Minerva built about 50 BC.


As dusk arrives the Romans come out to shop and we wandered down the Via del Corso with them feeling at home it this amazing city.