Day 12: Around the Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo

Today (Tuesday) we wandered around the block to see the frescos in the choir loft of Saint Cecilia's of Trastevere.  We got a guided tour from a English religious sister and got a close look at some well preserved 13th century work 'Last Judgement' by Pietro Cavallini (active 1273-1308).  Although part of the fresco is stylized Byzantine it moves to a more realistic depiction of human form and 3 -dimensionality.  Because of this Cavallini is seen as a important figure who started the development of renaissance art whenartists broke away from the restrictions of Byzantine Art .  He predates contemporary Giotto (he did a lot of frescos in Assisi) who followed his realism but added more emotion.

Today I experienced the strangeness of the Italian post office at Trastevere - I took a ticket and waited 15 minutes for my number to come up, only to later find I should have been at a counter in a building around the block!

Piaza del Popolo looking down Via del Corso

After lunch we took the tram to Place del Argentina and then a bus up Via del Corso to Piazza del Popolo (Place of the People) one of the most famous in Rome.  Another superb urban space designed with people and culture in mind and surrounded by history.  In the centre of the square is another obelisk originally brought to Rome by Caesar Augustus and at one edge is the famous Porta del Popolo designed by Bernini.  Bernini is also prominent in the design of the adjacent church Saint Maria del Popolo which has work by Bernini , Caravaggio, Raphael and other Renaissance artists.  Unf
ortunately the 'Conversion of St Paul' painting by Caravaggio was away on loan and the Chigi Chapel with works by Raphael and Bernini was closed but we did get a good look at 'The Cruxifixion of Peter' by Caravaggio.  An extraordinary work which captures the human anguish of Peter and his pain at the moment of an ignominious death.  This painting is recognized as a great and as we could not take photos I have added a link.

We wandered down the Via del Corso ( The name 'Corso' dates from the 15th century when Pope Paul II introduced horse racing (corsi) along the street - the races were imitations of the ancient games, and it wasn't only horses that ran; there were races for prostitutes, children, Jews and the crip

Ara Pacis

pled. They were finally banned in the 19th century).  

Mother Earth - Ara Pacis

We had a tour around the mausoleum built as the tomb of Augustus and the nearby museum which houses the altar of peace ('Ara Pacis') dedicated to him in 9 BCE after his return from the Gallic and Spanish wars.  The altar is now inside a modern building and has wonderful friezes which we could look at closely with the help of the audio guide.  They also had a an exhibition of war photos dating from the Spanish Civil War to the recent Libyan liberation.  This was a graphic and very grueling exhibition to complete.

Via Condotti

We headed back to Via del Corso along the Via Condotti - Rome's most elegant shopping-mile. This whole area is up, up, up-market fashion and to be seen here is probably a fashion statement. There were major outlets for Prada, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Gucci, Benetton etc. Cartier and every other Italian label for everything to do with fashion and along the Corso were hundreds of other boutique expensive fashion shops. The cheapest thing we saw was a cravat for 120 euro!

Spanish Steps

 The Christmas lights still shining above the Via Condotti lead to the 138 Spanish steps where we arrived after dusk. The steps are  gathering spot, worn smooth from millions of tourists and romantics.  A great spot for people watching and w
e will return another day (with a packed lunch because even the cafes are exclusive).

Here is my economic advice- all the Italian government needs to do for its austerity measures is to ensure Romans pay their bus fares - based on around 15 bus/tram/train trips I reckon only tourists pay.